by Deborah Mitchell
Want to throw away your eyeliner, lip liner and blush forever? More and more
women are turning to permanent makeup, or cosmetic tattooing, for makeup that
doesn't run or smear. Will you submit yourself to the needle in the name of
beauty? Learn more about permanent makeup before you decide.
If anyone had told Claudia last year she'd get a tattoo at age forty-eight, she
would have said they were crazy. Now she's delighted with her new look. "When
people ask me, 'where's the tattoo?' I tell them they're looking at it." Then
she bats her eyes. "The eyeliner and lip color are permanent. People say it
looks like makeup, and I tell them they're right."
Permanent makeup returns
Cosmetic tattooing was practiced by several ancient Mediterranean cultures, as
evidenced by the tattooed mummies found by archaeologists. Cosmetic tattooing
experienced a rebirth in the United States in the late 1970s, and today there
are a growing number of cosmetologists, tattoo artists, nurses, and
aestheticians in the industry.
Not just vanity
If you think permanent makeup is solely about vanity, think again. "Cosmetic
reasons is one area, but there are many more practical applications," says
Charles S. Zwerling, M.D., F.A.C.S., director of the American Academy of
Micropigmentation. For women who have arthritis, stroke, Parkinson's disease,
multiple sclerosis, or other conditions that cause tremors, putting on makeup
can be an impossible task. Permanent makeup eliminates their frustration. Women
with vision problems, who are blind, or who have cataracts are also good
candidates.
"Cataracts made putting on makeup impossible," says Margaret, a 60-year-old
grandmother. "Now my makeup looks good all the time!"
Cosmetic tattooing also helps women who have allergies or hypersensitivity to
makeup. Female athletes and other physically active women are turning to
permanent cosmetics, as are business women, entertainers, models, and
housewives.
For women who have lost their hair because of chemotherapy or alopecia (a
condition that can cause loss of body hair), permanent eyebrows and eyeliner can
restore self-esteem and eliminate the need to reapply eyebrows every day.
Cosmetic tattooing also helps with vitiligo (a condition in which the skin loses
pigment). Permanent makeup can blend lightened skin tones with the surrounding
normal-colored skin.
Permanent cosmetic procedures
The most common procedures are eyeliner, eyebrows, and lip liner, and the
largest age group seeking treatment are between ages 30 and 40, says Dr.
Zwerling. Another popular procedure is a "para-medical" one—areola restoration.
"Areola restoration after breast reconstruction is a very acceptable procedure
and offers dramatic results," says Dr. Zwerling. Cosmetic tattooing also is used
to relax scars and blend them into the surrounding skin.
Blush application is not recommended for anyone who gets much sun exposure.
Women with vitiligo who choose permanent makeup also must limit their time in
the sun. Both procedures usually require several sessions to complete.
How is it done?
Regardless of the body area or the technique, the concept is always the same:
placing iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments below the skin. What varies,
says Dr. Zwerling, is how much pigment is used, the color, and whether manual or
electrical instruments are employed. Pamela Netz, owner/operator of a permanent
cosmetic salon in Tucson, Arizona, and a member of the Society of Permanent
Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP), prefers hand tools. "They don't seem to hurt
people as much or to cause as much swelling," she explains. "And there's no
scabbing because there's no bleeding." Highly skilled machine technicians can
also provide a light touch.
You should have a consultation with the technician and a medical history review
before the procedure. It's a precaution, says Netz. "We like to know if clients
need antibiotics before dental or medical procedures, and in the case of lip
procedures, if they get cold sores."
Oh, the pain?
The amount of discomfort depends on your pain threshold, the skill of the
technician, and the procedure. Several topical anesthetic and desensitizing
products are used to make the procedure as pain-free as possible. "The key is to
allow time for the anesthetic to work," Netz says.
After the procedure
Expect some bruising and swelling, says Netz. These last two to three days for
eye procedures and up to one week for lips. Ice and an antibiotic ointment can
relieve symptoms, and you should avoid using alpha-hydroxy acid products or
topical tretinoin on tattooed areas because they can lighten the pigments.
How permanent is permanent? "That's a tough question," admits Netz. "The
pigments are permanent, but they all fade over time and will require touchups."
Both sunlight and regular light can lighten the color. One reason is that
pigments are not placed as deep nor as heavy as they would be on, say, the arm,
because facial skin is very delicate. For some women, the color lasts for more
than a decade without fading significantly.
Safety
According to Dr. Zwerling, over ten years, less than one percent of people
undergoing permanent cosmetic procedures have had an allergic reaction to the
pigment. To help prevent problems, the Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention has set standards for the industry (see "Choosing a Technician"
below).
If you take anticoagulants or immunosuppressive drugs or have an acute illness,
do not undergo permanent cosmetic procedures. According to Dermatology Times,
anyone with a history of oral herpes should take an antiviral drug before
getting permanent makeup.
Time and cost
The initial procedure usually takes one and one-half to two and one-half hours;
touch-ups generally take less time. But beauty does have its price: the average
cost per procedure is $400 to $600. Specialized work is usually charged by the
hour, often beginning at $150 to $250 per hour.
Choosing a technician
Susan Preston, past-president of the SPCP, recommends shopping for a permanent
cosmetic technician the same way you do for a doctor. Learn about the industry
and the procedures (see Resources) and visit the location you are considering.
Find out the following information about the technician:
- What is his/her background? What continuing education has he/she pursued?
- How much experience does he/she have in the type of procedure you want? Advanced procedures, such as facial blush and areola restoration require special training.
- Ask to see a portfolio of the individual's work.
- Does he/she belong to a professional organization? Dr. Zwerling recommends seeking a technician who is certified by the American Academy of Micropigmentation. He also notes that there are many qualified technicians who are not certified with the Academy and that not all certified technicians have the artistic touch for some procedures.
Ask yourself the following when visiting the site:
- Is the working environment clean?
- Are new sterile needles used for each client?
- Is the technician professional and neat with short, clean nails?
- Are new gloves used for each client?
- What type of anesthetics do they use?
- How much does it cost? What is the policy on touch-ups?
Several national organizations offer guidelines for technicians and referrals for consumers, including the American Academy of Micropigmentation and the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals. Technicians can get certified by the Academy. Currently only Maine requires certification from the Academy. Legislation in other states is pending.