Treating adult acne

by Jennifer Pitzi Hellwig

Acne is not just a disease of puberty. It affects many adults, particularly women, and can be socially devastating to some. Fortunately, new treatments are providing more options in the quest for clear skin.

Angela C., 26, a writer from Boston, had had it with acne. "It started when I was 16 and I thought it was normal. I thought I would grow out of it. But 10 years later my patience was wearing thin."

Angela's feelings are echoed by many adults dealing with what they think is only a teenager's problem. In 1994, the National Center for Health Statistics reported that the number of acne cases for people under the age of 18 was 29.4 per 1,000 persons. For people ages 18-44 it was not much less 26.4 per 1,000.

Causes of acne

Acne is a disease of the sebaceous hair follicle. These follicles are abundant on the face, scalp, back, chest, upper arms, and shoulders. The follicle contains the sebaceous gland, which secretes sebum an oily substance that travels up the hair shaft to the skin's surface. Excess production of sebum is stimulated by androgens male sex hormones. Along its way to the skin's surface, sebum comes in contact with dead skin cells and normal skin bacteria. If the dead skin and bacteria mix with sebum, the result is a clogged follicle.

This clogging, combined with over-production of sebum, can produce an acne lesion called a comedo (plural: comedones). Closed comedones are whiteheads and open comedones are blackheads. Inflamed or infected comedones (or "zits" as we call them) are red, filled with pus, and can be very painful.

Because androgen production goes into high gear during puberty, acne is common among teens. But hormones don't just cease to exist after adolescence. Other hormonal surges, such as those that occur premenstrually, giving birth, or going on or off birth-control pills can trigger acne in adult women. Stress has also been linked to flares of acne, although no one really knows why.

Treatment

In most cases, acne can't be cured, but it can be controlled. The basic premise behind acne treatment hasn't changed over the years, but the array of therapies to choose from has expanded. According to Dr. Alan R. Shalita, MD, chairman of the Department of Dermatology, SUNY Health Sciences Center in Brooklyn, New York, the usual course of action includes one of two treatments. Depending on the severity of the acne, topical treatments are the first line of treatment, with oral medication added as necessary.

Topical treatments

Topical treatments include retinoids (vitamin A-derivatives) and antibacterial agents. Retinoids unclog pores by accelerating the rate at which the skin's layers peel off and renew. Antibacterials are used, usually in conjunction with retinoids, to reduce bacteria and inflammation, thus reducing the likelihood of acne lesions forming.

Retin-A is probably the most well known of the retinoids. While it has helped millions of people with acne since its release in the 1970s, it can cause redness, flaking, and irritation of the skin. Two new preparations with retinoid activity microencapsulated tretinoin (trade name Retina Micro) and adapalene (trade name Differin) are now being prescribed. Both seem to be as effective as Retina at reducing acne lesions, but are much gentler on the skin.

Topical antibiotics, such as erythromycin and clindamycin, are used to combat bacteria on the skin. The most common of these is benzoyl peroxide (the main ingredient in Clearasil and other over-the-counter preparations). These are useful, but many women find the texture of these medications chalky or pasty and have a hard time applying makeup over them. For these women, Dr. Shalita recommends a sodium sulfacetamide lotion (trade name Klaron). Klaron is not a new drug, but has been reformulated and is being increasingly prescribed for acne treatment. It reduces bacteria and inflammation, yet is smooth, absorbs well, and goes on nicely under makeup.

Oral treatments

Oral treatments generally consist of antibiotics (such as tetracycline, erythromycin, doxycycline, and minocin), hormones (in the form of birth-control pills), and the potent retinoid, accutane.

  • Antibiotic therapy is not new, but can be effective at keeping acne at bay. However, some women experience side effects, such as vaginal yeast infections, during chronic antibiotic therapy.
  • Birth-control pills have been prescribed for acne for more than 30 years, according to Dr. Shalita. This is because the low-dose estrogen in some pills reduces the secretion of sebum from the sebaceous gland. Now, for the first time, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has approved a birth-control pill (trade name Ortho Tri-Cyclen) for use in treating acne, after clinical trials demonstrated it to be effective.
  • Accutane For very severe cases of acne, in which all other treatments are ineffective, and in which Dr. Shalita says there can be "both physical and psychological scarring," accutane is indicated. Accutaneactually shrinks the sebaceous glands and can be a cure for acne for some of its users, but it carries with it the potential for serious side effects, including birth defects if a woman becomes pregnant, so it is usually a last resort.

As Angela has found in her 10 years of battling acne, finding the right treatment can be a hit-or-miss situation, and it may take some time to find what's best for you. "I'd run the gamut of acne treatments," Angela said. "I'd been on four different oral antibiotics, but after dealing with unwanted side effects, I tried birth control pills. Those worked almost miraculously, but I eventually developed migraine headaches and had to stop taking them. I figured there was nothing else left, except Retina, which I had tried but made my skin red and flaky. I was pleasantly surprised when I visited a different dermatologist and found out there were some more choices."

Angela seems to have found what's right for her. "After eight weeks of using Klaron twice a day and Differin at night, my skin looks great. It's not perfect, but much improved. So, while I'm still waiting to "outgrow" acne, at least I know I can control it."